Coming Home

2.25.2010

When we last left NYFW in Bryant Park during its last run there in September 2009, bare legs, feminine freedom, dusty color and loose waves charged in an ultra-romantic assault on the spiked heel & studded clutch public. The super feminine girl of spring 2010 has grown up for fall, leaving behind those bike shorts and silky bralettes for a looser, more demure silhouette that is something in between completely familiar and completely daring. The collections have been clean, simple, and above all: honest. Honest in the sense that designers really understood that women dress for cold weather like stepping outside is a journey, a battle even, where being sensible is sometimes an option overshadowed by the need to look attractive. Women need real, intelligent options for fall, and their pleas were heard for 2010. Investment dressing is back, and I couldn't be happier.


I am SO pleased with the NYFW collections and I'm so glad American designers have sort of grown out of that ├╝berglam 80's, tightly silhouetted, overdone "de la mode" that was 2009. The collections were wearable and tranquil, colors were serene yet incredibly lush, and lines were classic. And OMGAH you guys, there were SO.MANY.LAYERS. Okay, I'm seriously excited to start talking about this crap so my (actual) rant starts now.




Here's what I loved:



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Peter Som

I'm actually having trouble writing this because Som's collection just made me giddier than a 6 year old in a field of daisies. Although my favorite thing about the NYFW collections was the emphasis of classic, simple lines and savoring what you have (versus the look from spring, at least), Som injected psychedelic colors and incredibly rich textures into the mix. He called his collection "Cuckoo but chic" in its emphasis on escapist sensibility, and it was indeed a wonderful escape.

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Marc Jacobs

Remember what I said about looseness reigning? Marc brought the A-line thunder for fall and gave everyone the warm fuzzies. "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" swooned and floated as it played in the background, the models were "unwrapped" by Mr.Jacobs as he tore apart brown paper that encased the girls in a box. Just complete romance, the feeling of coming home after a journey. Very vintage 70's, but also very girly. Je'taime.

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Vena Cava

I thought this was a very New York collection. Again, not a whole lot of color, a lot of beiges and grays. I'm not head over heels about this collection, but it was nice. Actually, when this collection debuted during the start of fashion week, I started noticing this "touch of fur" trend. You'll notice this season was not kind to the PETA pleas of dropping fur as a dressing option, fur was EVERYWHERE.

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Richard Chai Love

Gray.Lots of it. These pieces rocked my socks. I LOVE the white boots. Like, crazies. The sparkle was nice against the wools and knits played up with flowy chiffon bottoms.

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Y-3

Asymmetry reigned supreme in Yamamoto land as it usually does. This awesome collection had all the typical Yohji Yamamoto stand-bys, from dark humor, proportion challenges and dropped crotches, it was all there.

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Derek Lam

Yo, Derek, like, thumbs up on the Camel coats, man. And speaking of coats, another trend to look out for (#2): shearling aviator coats. I swear it felt like every collection had a different version of it, and I think it's an incredibly smart piece to own.

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Calvin Klein

While layer upon layer piled up in most of the collections in NYC, Francisco Costa brought refreshing beauty through his signature minimalism. The looks were sleek, I got a slight YSL vibe off of some of them, and every piece was strong, confident and definitely focused on line rather than color.

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Michael Kors

This was the ultimate in examples of sexy sportswear, the masc/fem look, luxury and glamour. Kors explained how this was a collection inspired by a photo of Lisa Taylor and how effortlessly sexy she looked with her hair a mess and her clothes a little loose. These were pieces that everybody has in their closets, but Kors manages to remind people of what they want. These were far and away the sexiest looks of NYFW.



Other notes:

-I really loved the inspiration at Rodarte: the dark spans of the Mexican border, the notion of seeing ghosts. It was really romantic.

-"Snooki bumps" at Vera Wang. Why?

-Isaac Mizrahi had my vote for best use of sparkle

-Alexander McQueen's last collection will be shown on March 9th :/





So that's that, after 5 hours of gathering thoughts and looking through dozens of collections, I look like this:

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I do this because I love it. Have an awesome week everyone!!

10 comments:

  1. I think I'm most in love with the flowing skirts in the Peter Som collection there.
    I personally adore long skirts and are so glad that they seem to becomming a touch more popular again, so I might be able to find some!

    -Robyn

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  2. you picked some of my absolute favorites as well. gotta love fashion week!

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  3. I LOVE Calvin Klein. And I get a very "Claire" vibe from Peter Som. Simply fab.

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  4. Y-3 is probably my favorites on the staple section, but I have to say: Peter Som makes me want to just be a gilded patterned butterfly...

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  5. Layers have taken over. I love all of the collections.

    :)
    www.morgan-ashley.net

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  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. You are sooooo lucky that you went to fashion week!!! I love the Marc Jacobs collection!!

    Check out my blog at allthingsvogue.blogspot.com

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