2

S✮T✮A✮R // PRéMA

3.24.2015





Went to PRéMa last week and gots me a fresh color lewk and some hidden braids. I proceeded to make life 64% more fun by incorporating some gold star confetti because I have a whole bunch in a dish by my bed, and I never know what else to do with it other than place my phone on top of it like a A+ student mountain of glory.

BUT GUYS!
 PRéMA's really fun, if you're in the city and need a new look, I suggest you check 'em out 'cause they're pretty new to NYC (they've been on Stanton st. since last August, originally from Australia) and the stylists there are some of the most informative and helpful I've ever sat with. 

Greg, who did my color, moved me in the right direction when I mentioned I wanted something that would 1. fade strategically as I start spending more time outside, and 2. enhance my natural texture. He went ahead and made the top section of my head about 1 shade darker than my ends, explaining that with curls and waves, a bit of "shadow" at the top will add some dimension and shape to my hair when it does its thang.

Dale styled me up and gave me some quick tips for what I should do when I need my hair out of my face and I don't want a palm tree on the top of my head. He suggested twisting an off-center section of hair from the back of the head, twisting forward and pinning behind my head. Voilá! Looks way better than the gathered-atop junk I tend to do

If you're in NYC, they're a salon worth visiting, especially if you're looking for something new, because their consultations are ON. POINT.  They'll for sure steer you in the right direction and give you something you probably wouldn't have thought of at first!

New York Salon: +1 (646) 861 3766


4

Studio Visit: Liam of York

3.23.2015


A mood wall, with hand-dyed fabric swatches and some of Designer Rebecca's experiments






Liam of York's Fall coat from the Autumn '15 collection, I can't help but love that she uses masculine details, like this passport pocket, in a woman's coat- what woman doesn't need an inside pocket?




A custom-made dress, hand-dyed by Rebecca using Shibori


Solomon, super-friendly resident fauna 



Rebecca lounges in her design seat


Yesterday afternoon I stepped into Rebecca Wolsten's sunlit studio and admired some truly beautiful fabrics. Rebecca, the founder and designer behind Liam of York, had lured me into her space with the promise of DOUGH donuts and an afternoon discussing the industry we both find ourselves in. 

It's hard to stand by Rebecca's hand-crafted (and dyed!) pieces without feeling the warmth of her passionate handiwork. From her home/studio, she carefully ties and plucks intricate patterns using an ancient Japanese hand-dyeing technique called Shibori, a method renowned for centuries for its graphic capacity to reflect nature, and a natural fabric's connection to the earth it grew from. By using this method, Rebecca is able to create pieces that are completely individual, as no two are alike and each garment takes to the dye differently.

When Rebecca's pieces aren't hand-dyed, they're crafted from handmade fabrics that are created using heritage techniques, sourced from around the world. For Rebecca, her clothes constantly seek to cross planes of  meaning: modern design meets ancient craft, masculine tailoring meets the charm and specialness of the intelligent gamine wearer. All are qualities I can't help but admire and enjoy.

I asked Rebecca about her process and what makes each and every one of her pieces so special:

You live and work in Brooklyn now, and I always love meeting Brooklyn-based designers! Is there a part of working here that is particularly conducive to your work? 

In Brooklyn I have a large home studio and I don't think that would be possible in Manhattan.  I also like the culture; Brooklyn Museum, galleries, great food, and that my best friends all live with in a mile and that we all bike.  There is nothing better than biking on Kent Ave along the water in the summer.

What was the first aspect of Fashion (process, design, textiles, photography- anything) that really piqued your interest and made you think "Yeah, I wanna do this!" 

My first experience with fashion was in a general theater class in high school.  I got stuck on the costume design section.  I then started altering things from second hand stores. Cutting, embellishing, sewing. Fashion design, making things, and my art classes really gave me self confidence and the freedom to be myself at a young age.  

I'm beyond intrigued by your use of historical processes for your hand-dyed fabrics. Could you give a little low-down on which process you use to dye your textiles yourself? 

I use shibori dyeing methods which originated in Japan in the 8th century, I like doing handwork and took a class at the Brooklyn Textile Arts Center a few years ago and have been doing it on my own ever since.  I love how silk takes dye so vibrantly.  Hand dyeing is also unpredictable so no two fabrics will come out the same even if you follow the same process.  There's a lot of surprise and experimenting.

How have you chosen which colors to work with these past few seasons? Do these have special meanings for you? 

I tend to start by gathering images and fabrics that I am drawn to.  I do not first choose a color palette.  I whittle down the fabrics I have sourced and start by grouping them instinctively.  I have a background in painting and naturally think of my collection as a formal composition in terms of color, forms, and proportion.

If you could see your clothes in a landscape, would you want them to stand out or blend in, depending on where you see them? 

That is a draw.  I want my woman to blend when she wants and draw attention when she wants.  I am planning a trip to Greece soon and can't wait to wear lots of Liam of York. I am hoping to be very inspired by the natural landscapes and ancient ruins.

I'm so happy to see you add pockets to many of your designs, which adds utility to your beautiful pieces. Do you see LIAM OF YORK pieces being worn everyday? What kind of lady do you envision sporting your clothes? 

I do see Liam of York as being worn everyday and I use a lot of cotton fabrics. I like my clothes to be casual enough that they are easily thrown on for a full day, from morning to night.  My clothes are for professional creative woman, she has places to go and people to see and doesn't want to look like everyone else in the room. She feels different because she is different.

You also make jewelry! Did you always want jewelry to play a part in your looks? 

For a while now I have been more focused on my clothing collection, but as a designer jewelry design also interests me.  The jewelry I have made is for the same Liam of York girl as my clothes she likes pieces that are special, classics with a twist.

As a crafts-person and designer who embraces slow fashion and more thoughtful modes of consumption, what criteria do you look for in something when you bring a new piece of clothing into your life/closet? 

I am beyond picky when I am buying clothing as I know how to make things and don't like buying clothes that fall apart after a few wears.  I look for pieces that feel special to me that I haven't seen everywhere that speak to my style in general and good quality.  I stay away from trends and really look for things I will want to wear year after year.

Any exciting developments as you work on the next step for Liam of York? 

I am starting to work on my Spring 16 collection and making a few custom pieces for clients which is always exciting!

BROOKLYN FOLK! ebecca's also holding a presale for her Autumn/Winter collection this Saturday, deets here:

Saturday 3/28
12-5pm
241 Taaffe Pl #209
Mimosas and PREORDER for AW15 and some made to order summer goodies


Payments accepted: Cash, CC, Venmo

4

Fascinating

3.16.2015

_IGP5550

_IGP5572

_IGP5561

_IGP5553

_IGP5554

_IGP5537




Cheap Monday dress via Asos (℅), vintage sweater via Dusty Rose Vintage, Rebecca Minkoff backpack (℅), Vagabond shoes, Ray Ban sunglasses 

Gosh dang, I love this tie dress found on Asos: it has such a modest length but the side slit with the ties is soooo cheeky. I styled this number back last summer when it wasn't quite on shelves yet, and it's been on my mind ever since!

 Is there a more fundamental, more basic form of clothing fastening than the simple strap tie? There's something about the semiotic duality of the ribbon tie that I love: On one hand, it can look like something you'd see on a hospital gown (which I STILL love), but on the other, it's one of the most elegant, historic and practical ways to fasten two pieces of cloth together.

Also, sunglasses as pins in knits, amirite?

Oh, did you notice my lipstick experiment here?
(In case you're wondering, it's NARS semi-matte lipstick in Scarlet Empress, semi-applied)

1

ARROJO Resurrects My Curls

My hair after just using Grace's styling tip

About 5 months ago, I noticed something wasn't quite right with my hair.
Slowly but surely, my hair had begun to lose its curl, and it freaked me the hell out; I mean, to say that I didn't feel like myself is an understatement, not that I ever would have expected to feel that way, but I surely did. I didn't have any volume and my curls had fizzled out to wispy sections, and I was worried that I was going to have to start getting used to looking a bit different.

So my first instinct was to go to Grace, my go-to stylist at Arrojo, who took one look at me and pretty much read my mind: "Where are your curls, girl??" and yeah, I broke down like "FIX MY HEAD, DUDE!!".

Turns out a lot of women go through hair texture changes like this. Another senior stylist at Arrojo, Lina, told me that a number of things could have been making my hair turn: hormonal changes, having my hair colored for too long, using the wrong products... all kinds of things could have effected it. The hormonal changes thing struck me though, because my hair was straight for a very long time when I was a kid. It wasn't until I hit puberty that I started to notice my hair turning curly.

Grace heard my pleas for help and gave me a few pointers, one in particular has saved my life and has pretty much resurrected my curls with added staying power:

She advised me to combine 2-parts curl creme and 1-part styling creme, and to wind the product around sections of my hair when it's wet before diffusing it, or better yet (which I do more often), clipping the tightly wound curls and letting them air-dry. A lot of curly hair stylists have also previously recommended I "lift" the root of my hair with flat clips before in order to avoid "triangle-head", so this does that PLUS encourage shape.

If you wanna see a quick video I did of Grace applying regimen this in-salon, Click Here


fig I: the product, 2 parts curl creme (top) and 1 part styling creme

fig II: the application of fig I

I ended up getting an American Wave process done too along with my new styling regimen. American Wave is Arrojo's curl system. It encouraged my texture a bit and has filled in the wimpy spaces of my hair. And BOOM, we're back, kids!


Untitled

If you're in NYC, I recommend hitting up Grace and Lina for cuts, and Francesca for color, love you, ladies! Thanks for all your help!

1

Perf Shoe

3.10.2015

Untitled
Untitled






































Vagabond Aurora two part flats•

Why, wouldya look at that, it's the perfect shoe for all my stuff.
And copper hardware! Nice.


 

De Lune All rights reserved © Blog Milk Powered by Blogger